My Vietnam Summary

It's six thirty at night (not quite sure the day) and I'm writing this from my bottom bunk in my hostel in china town, in Kuala Lumpur, in Malaysia (in the world, in the magical universe). Listening to Jean Leloup singing 'Paradis City', just came back from getting a tattoo of the Ohm symbol and a quote from the super amazing zen monk Thích Nhất Hạnh, translated to "Compassion is a verb."

From this comes where am at and where I want to go. 

I spend almost 2 months in Vietnam (minus a week in the beautiful kingdom of Laos). From South to the North. Which both hated each other, and are so different in just about everything, but were both enjoyable enough to go back (well maybe not Saigon). 

Saigon was busy, it was the slap in the face welcome to Vietnam I had sort-of expected. Hot, super hot, and busy. I remember screaming the entire time I was on my rented scooter going continuously around the round-a-bout over and over and over until I got the nerve to get out of the loop. There definitely was an immensely diverse culture and population there. Had bottle service with friends, went to a Japanese whiskey bar, had famous Vietnamese pancakes on the street in a busy alley, many massages (not as good as Thailand), and remember dancing- a lot. A bit frustrating but it was just growing pains.

North a bit to Hoi An. I wouldn't be opposed to moving to this little slice of true, boldly and brightly colored life a bit. The lanterns, there are so many of them, and every single street looks like it came out of a Disney film. Dragon bridges, (lanterns everywhere), paper birds, street are of ancient cobblestone, beautiful shops filled with goddess clothes, and shops where you get anything you can imagine hand made for you to wear for under 10usd.  Great food, great Indian food, tons of veggie food and the best local veg stands. I helped with the Vietnam Animal Welfare over this Christmas holiday and lived on the "outside" of the town with a duck in a clinic. The country people are the nicest. The expats are taking over but its whatever, the locals are sweet, the energy is alive, its all walking and bicycling streets and a UNESCO World Heritage site. What more can you ask for? It looks like a dream come to life just after the director yells action. For the beach you just take a bicycle through the rice fields to the aqua ocean freckled with the bowl-shaped boats on sugar sand. I remember wishing I could snap my fingers and all those I truly cared about would instantly appear there with me. 

Lastly in Vietnam, Hanoi. After surviving the bus from hell (the properly named 24 hour bus from Luang Prabang, Laos to Hanoi) I spent a few days seeing an old friend, partying with a unicorn, and drinking .15 cent street beer on micro plastic stools. Met up with a new friend ( (I had met on NYE in Vientiane, Laos) and for a week we broke every rule in the universe. It was one of the most- god this is cliche-fun weeks probably of my life. Ordering all the take out food possible for 2 human beings, getting lost every single day, laughing almost at all times, and learning a lot, ha a lot. I left- after he went back to French Canadian snowland- to the valley of Mai Chau, South West of the city. Stayed in a home-stay and cycled until I could not stand. But I felt athletically accomplished so there is no complaint here, and it was nice to be with myself, just myself and my thoughts for most of my days there. When you spend this much time with yourself its trippy, in the way you want trips to be, you answer questions you've always had and at the same time, always have had the answer to. Dreams become just as opening as your reality and I think that we all need this type of experience, this type of escape and road to clarity life has given us for free..we just need to do it. Clearing your mind is just as important as finding your way.
When I went back to Hanoi I had an odd feeling of being happy to be home. Which was different. But when you feel yourself smiling and excited to walk gray cold streets, something is right int the universe. I stayed in Hanoi for almost 3 weeks, I saw how the people rose in the mornings, and how the city closed down late at night. Had my favorite vegan hole-in-the-wall places for rice porridge and for fried sticky rice, made friends with hotel staff from several places, and found a little smokey bar I could listen to locals jam out on classic rock while sipping on Johnnie Walker with couch change. I really, really liked Hanoi. 

I kept a little list of "things learned" on my phone, here is how it was written, from my beginning to end of the Vietnam leg of this journey:


-This is where Water Buffalo and Starfruit come from
-The sweeter the beverage they serve you, the more they care
-Download Chet Faker
-Having a long pinkie nail means that you are above manual labor
-Don't eat street Pho
-I am an excellent moped driver
-Don't cry for the lost, smile for the living
-A translate app does not work when the people can't read
-To ration water and food on bus journeys
-Always have tissue, always
-Never bring Indian food on a 24 hour bus ride
-I keep hearing 'ba nay nay' and I laugh every time
-I can play the bowl instruments
-How to walk in the streets of Vietnam, takes about 3 weeks
-Durian tastes like bubble gum
-I have FOMO

Quotes to remember forever:
"If your nerve deny you - go above your nerve." -Emily Dickinson
"Listen to your own voice, your own soul, too many people listen to the noise of the world, instead of themselves." -Leon Brown
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." -William Ernest Henley
"Compassion is a verb." -Thích Nhất Hạnh 

I would do it all again. I would go back. I would bring people I love back. This part of my life makes me happy, makes me feel the electricity running through my veins that is passion. Passion for living, for traveling, for learning, for growing, for culture, for people.

Vietnam was worth it.

Mai Chau, Vietnam

Pieces from my journal during my cycling trip to Mai Chau, Vietnam in January, 2016

Day 1 in Mai Chau, Vietnam:

Woke up super early. Got in a van for 4 hours to Mai Chau valley. Stopped and had sticky rice inside roasted bamboo in the fog. Checked into my stilt house home stay and rented a mountain bike. Rode to the highway that will be the start of my trek tomorrow, warm up 30 k, had sugarcane juice as my reward. Hugged a little little cow, played with an epic dog and a water bottle, and got high as the sun went down looking at the fields. The family at the home-stay made us a feast..the food just kept on coming. There's a teen party in the dried rice fields across the road, I can't stop listening to Jean Leloup (cursed by a French Canadian)..oh, and today is Sunday♡ Xoxo

Day 2 Mai Chau..rode 100 kilometers..never doing it again.

Started at 8, got back at 1840, took 5 min breaks every 30 minutes and 17 minutes for lunch. Got screamed at to clean before I could eat the little lady's food.
I think I swallowed a half pound of dirt riding..
Listened to Alt-J, Passenger, Milky Chance, Trevor Hall, and Bon Jovi ...not ashamed.
Note: Don't listen to Tribal seeds or Soja when your only vice is a mushed banana and water..
Truckers gave me a red Bull and tried to give me Doughnuts..
Saw a horrible scene where a lady killed a dog in a cage, and 40 minutes later saw a lady dog catcher- I told everyone around the intersection she had no heart with arm symbols. .
Saw the red teeth lady from my postcard (see pic) and almost crashed.
Started seeing things by hour 8...
I saw a box of Miller Light on the back of someone's scooter. Thought that the mud water was a street and almost rode right into it..
Got to the home-stay in the pitch dark...collapsed on the pavement..had to brace to stand up in the shower.
Had my first conversation with a person at 7pm.
Please work IB Profin.
Not sure if this was in correct order, even my mind is exhausted.
Xoxo Brooke

How I fell in love with Luang Prabang, Laos

I spent 5 days and 4 nights in the town of Luang Prabang in Laos. 

Arrived on a sleeper bus (this one was not at bad at the others*) early one morning (days are getting tougher to remember).

After landing at the hostel, I made a friend from Spain (who is living in China) and there began our bicycling adventures. First around the little and beautiful town. There are temples, rivers, smiling people, puppies everywhere, cool breezes and a glittery night market that never gets old.

In 2 alone days we cycled over 100 kilometers. Riding the second day to the Kuang Si waterfalls, up mountain 36 kilometers, through villages, passing schools of giggling children, and stopping for fruit at wooden stands along the way. Well worth the trip, even worth the uphill pushing of the rented bicycles without tire treads. 

The falls were unbelievable, cascading into natures most perfect pools of cool blue water. One of those places, like so many I have seen, where you take about 100 of the same pictures, because at that moment in your life, every millisecond of beauty is different but as magical as the next.

The following day we rode a total of 52 kilometers to the Pak Ou Caves. The ride was easier for about two thirds of the way. then we left the concrete to the rough and tough soil and mountainous terrain. The ride was rough, but I felt remarkably connected to my surroundings. There were 'awe' moments left and right, mountains that looked like those floating on clouds in Avatar, and minutes at a time when we were surrounded by the most whimsical and colorful butterflies I have ever seen. Those random times in life when you find yourself smiling for at least half an hour straight and laughing at just about everything, well that happened on the ride that day to the caves.

Which- were filled with thousands of Buddhas and almost enchanting when you enter the caverns...

Back to how I fell in love with this place- I believe it is the synchronicity. The flow. Everything works smoothly, like clockwork but with comfort, and not anxiety. The monks in the early morning with their calmness, the curiosity of the new tourists and the mixture of the old and the young, the traveler on a budget and the English old money. The way the night market glitters with exactly the same thing in almost every stall, but somehow you are mesmerized by it every single night. The 10,000 kip vegan buffet located right in the center of the market. The little lady who makes the coconut milk cakes and gives me an additional 1 to 3 each time I visit. The hidden bar called 'Utopia' where we ended up every night sitting on cushions with strangers, surrounded by vintage motorcycles and travelers all under what seems to be a magical canopy in Neverland. 

The last sunset I had in Luang Prabang- I found myself on the side of a concrete wall, staring at the mountains, the skyline, the water, and the man on a small boat creating these wonderful and smooth ripples on the water just awaiting someone to paint him. As I bicycled slowly away following natures light show, I said to myself, and then aloud to my friend, 'I am absolutely in love with this place.'

That perfect feeling where your skin is smiling because your heart is smiling, never loose that feeling. And when you find it, engrave it into your memory so that your life never falls short of this wonderful feeling of living.

What to do with 6 hours in Vientiane, Laos

What to do when you have 6 hours to spend in the capitol of Laos (awaiting a not so special 10 hour sleeper bus)...

First, start walking, towards the temples and the big-highlighted places on the ever favorite tourist map.

-Ignore every couple you see and smile in the fact that you are brave and wonderful and on your own in this beautiful world as a glittery gypsy with zero obligations.

-Resist the urge to put on headphones on your long, long walk. A.) Because this is life and the smells and sounds and all of it is NOW. B.) Its dangerous.

-Take pictures of things you don't understand but think are important.

-Sneak in the back entrances of temples 

"Friend Ryan"

-Meet a friend.:) And in turn we both have picture taker buddies:)

-Travel towards the mapped destinations with this new friend.

-Take pictures of random Tuk Tuks, because its not like you don't have 20 of these already.

-Visit all the places that are gold and shiny and full of Buddhas.

-NEVER forget to look up ...

-Hit an ancient gong, as loud as you can...

-Pretend you are the Pope...

-Spent almost 2 hours in a coffee shop with new friend talking about Stargate SG1 and life...

-Finally, grab uber cheap Indian food and some more samosas to go for your (not so amazing journey on a sleeper bus).

Lifes for the Living, Vientiane

I am in the future, in the New Year. 

Here is a recap of the last few days.

Vientiane

I spent 4 days here. Flew in to Vientiane from Da Nang, after a stop (completely running from the domestic to international terminal) in Hanoi. Arrived early in the evening and split a cab with friends from the plane. Checked into my hostel. Note: Always check if when you book a private room it includes your bathroom. I had to ration my water throughout the night in fear of having to stumble down 3 flights to use the WC. 

Woke up on New Years Eve for an early morning run down the Mekong River. I love these runs in Asia, I feel like I am running next to attractions in Epcot center, when really these temples are the real thing, busting with history and color. Water colors come to life like in Marry Poppins. Quickly changed hotels to one with a bathroom in the room. I am a backpacker but one a little past the sharing toilet stage when I have the choice.

Tattoos are a taboo here in Laos. I am not sure if technically it is illegal, but there are zero parlors anywhere. I was given the name of one guy from a hairdresser, and the same name from the manager of my hotel, so I went with that. Paid 60.000 kip for a tuk tuk ride about 20 minutes across town (of course we broke down along the way). Arrived, the artist was kind, creative, amazing. The people around the "tattoo supply shop" gave me food, a shot of whiskey half way through, then beer on ice (I will never ever get used to this) after to celebrate. About 3 hours of work for less than 75usd. The artist drove me back on his moped to my hotel. 

Got my hair and makeup done from a lady boy for about 4usd ( I will admit that the moment I left the salon I wiped off the white eyeliner and most of the gold glitter). And got ready for New Years Eve, with zero plans. Put on a dress and walked towards the music. I stood near the only people who seemed to speak English..told them this, and instantly made friends. We partied on the front row of this huge party, in front of the stage. Things got a bit crazy...someone had black label whiskey, there was almost a fight in the women's bathroom, and people were kicked off stage..story in a half. Epic night, crazy after wards, will leave that to my memories.

Woke up with a wicked hangover and a mystery bump on the back of my head. Made myself get to the pharmacy, which was closed because of the holiday, of course. Grabbed a passion fruit smoothie, veg Pad Thai and booked myself a trip to Buddha Park.

Which....was pretty cool. Except for paying to get there, paying for entry, and paying for the toilet, I got some amazing shots (sporting my hangover), 2 grilled bananas on sticks, and passed out next to the driver in the van while we waited for the rest of our tour. Scored IB Profin, visited the night market, got tons of grub including scallion pancakes and red curry with tofu, then passed out early.

Awoke, booked a bus for the evening to Luang Prabang (10 hour sleeper) and began my last day in the capitol city.

(read the next post to see the conclusion)